Destination Edinburgh Without Borders

Emily Manthei

August is when, traditionally, Europeans make a mass exodus from their greatest cities and spend a month at the seaside, in the country, or traveling the world. But not in Edinburgh. As the home of the largest fringe festival on the planet, Edinburgh’s population swells with locals, tourists, artists, and journalists flooding the cobblestone paths of Scotland’s usually-quiet capital. So, what are all these people doing here?

The Festival Fringe started as the rebellion of a few stray theater troupes who were rejected from the highbrow Edinburgh International Festival, where symphony, theatre, and dance are hand-selected to bring world-class art and culture to this northern British outpost. (You can still see the best-of-the-highbrow perform at the International Festival this year from August 8-31). These young rebels decided to stage their shows in unconventional venues throughout the city, in spite of their exclusion from the official program. As the numbers of these defiant rejects grew in subsequent years, the Festival Fringe Society was born. Today, the ethic of the Fringe remains the same: provide advice and logistical support to any and all performers planning to stage a show or performance in Edinburgh during the festival run, from August 1-25. The Fringe Society publishes a guide book describing all registered performers during the summer so that festival-goers can prepare for the Fringe by consulting this 413-page guide and decide who to see.

No time to read the guide? No worries – Entertainment Voice has your Cliff Notes, highlighting interesting performers, hints, and tips about festival-going, popping in with other events (yes, there’s more), and even providing you with ideas about where to kick back and escape the melee. You’ll see that the only way to experience Scotland is through this unique month. This year, the hot topic is Scotland’s upcoming referendum: will the Scots leave the United Kingdom to assert their independence as free Scots? Regardless of your opinion on the issue (if you have one) you’ll be bombarded by Fringe shows and on-the-street demonstrations addressing the topic, so you’d better study up if you want to talk to any locals in the pub.

DO:
The Fringe
With thousands of shows at hundreds of venues, you won’t be the only one with FOMO. Plan to take the “Programme” PDF on the flight from Los Angeles, which should give you time to read it! Buy your tickets online, at the Box Office, or any of the other collection points throughout the city.

Cabaret
Flight of the Conchords fan searching for more Kiwi musical comedy? Ivory-tickling comedienne Hayley Sproull presents “Miss Fletcher Sings the Blues” at murky venue The Caves in Edinburgh’s notorious nightlife district, the Cowgate. Alternatively, circus-and-singing-sensation Strangely Doesburg presents “A Roaring Accordion,” also in the Cowgate, as part of the “Free Fringe” ticketed-but-free performances.

Comedy
The largest performance category at the Fringe is comedy. These are just the tip of the iceberg. Those familiar with LA Improv shows like The Black Version or Point Break Live will enjoy Austentatious: An Improvised Jane Austen Novel, a nightly improv from audience-suggested titles that are performed in period costumes. The show runs in the Pleasance Dome at the University of Edinburgh. For a critique of the glitter of American performance by performing glittering magic in a comedic way, Elephant Room defies explanation and packs out the Assembly Hall on the Mound. Meet up at bus and train depot Waverly Bridge for a haunting, comedic tour of Edinburgh’s underbelly on the Fright Bus. You’ll get to know both the city and its demons. BAFTA-nominated Iaian Sterling, an Edinburgh native, brings his sell-out show to the Pleasance Courtyard. The Best of Scottish Comedian of the Year is a must-see in the country’s capital, playing at Underbelly in the Cowgate. Also check out Rosie Wilby of BBC Radio 4s “90s Woman” at the VooDoo Rooms.

Dance, Physical Theatre and Circus
You won’t want to miss Vendetta Mathea’s Homme|Animal, a “powerful masterpiece” about facing our emotions from an American-born choreographer who has sold out shows all over France.

Music
At the Fringe, it’s all about the venue. Music venues are curators of great collections. The Jazz Bar hoards the top jazz and blues musicians for shows starting daily at 1pm. Pop by St. Mary’s and St. Giles’ Cathedrals for a month of free classical music, usually served in the morning and at mid-day. Check out St. Andrews’ Square and George Square for contemporary concerts. And you can’t miss the Red Hot Chili Pipers (that’s bagpipes) at Queen’s Hall.

Musicals and Opera
Look for stagings of many of your favorite musicals and operas, older material with new twists, and mashups of playwrights, popular music, and dance.

Spoken Word
Check out “Cafe Voices” at the Storytelling Centre and listen to “A poet, an actor and some Marmite” answer the question, “Is Your Marmite Watching You?” in St. Andrew Square.

Theatre
Check out Scotsman-recommended Beans on Toast at Zoo Southside, Blind Hamlet at the Assembly Roxy, or steam punk Dracula at the Pleasance Courtyard. The Edinburgh Literary Pub Tour meets outside the Beehive Inn. The 2013 Fringe First winner, Nathan Penlington, returns with Choose Your Own Documentary at Teviot Row House.

ELSEWHERE IN EDINBURGH:
Even sans the Fringe, Edinburgh has some special venues for the crowd-weary art and culture lover to escape the fray.

Filmhouse
Edinburgh’s premiere cinema for arthouse and European film, the Filmhouse program includes an August retrospective on important films about Scottish identity ahead of the referendum, in addition to new theatrical works from all over the world.

International Book Festival
The literary lovers among us can enjoy the Book Festival from Aug 9-25, with new book releases, readings, and author signings.

Royal Scottish Academy
Featuring the best of art and architecture in the Scottish capital, the RSA Museum is a point of pride on the High Street and a shelter in the center of the city and festival.

Neutral Milk Hotel
The reunited remembrance from our teen years returns to Edinburgh on August 14 for a show at the Corn Exchange.

EAT:
Local fish, fried everything, and tea room fare are par for the course in this northern outpost of the British Empire. But with the reputation of local boys, like Gordon Ramsay, to live up to, the food culture is becoming more refined.

Clarinda’s Tea Room
With the best cuppa and home-made pastries on the Royal Mile, and in the whole of Edinburgh, Clarinda’s will have you feeling like you’ve stepped into Grandma’s house. Doilies, bone China, tea sandwiches – this is a can’t miss.

Dubh Prais
For authentic Scottish meats and the legendary sheep’s stomach-wrapped dish haggis, visit Dubh Prais on the Royal Mile, a central-city cellar restaurant.

Martin Wishart
This Michelin-starred eatery in Leith is one of the jewels of Edinburgh’s dining scene. Restaurateur Wishart maintains the elegance of a luxury dining experience in an inviting atmosphere. Dinner tasting menus are an all-night affair, but the restaurant serves Tuesday-Sunday lunch as well.

DRINK:
What to drink in Scotland? Do you have to ask?

Royal Mile Whiskeys
For Scotland’s drink of choice, visit Royal Mile Whiskeys on try to score a last-minute-ticket to the Whiskey Fringe on August 8-10.

VooDoo Rooms
Even if the drinks weren’t voted Scotland’s best and the specialty menu didn’t keep you guessing, the VooDoo Rooms would still be a great music and dancing venue located in a beautiful building with grandiose Victorian architecture in the heart of Edinburgh’s New Town.

Heads and Tales
Whiskey isn’t the only distilled spirit in town anymore. Heads and Tales is the craft cocktail bar sharing space with Edinburgh Gin, the city’s university-sponsored gin distillery. Science, meet liquor. And my empty glass.

STAY:
Homey cottage, historic stay, or posh hotel, we’ve got you covered.

Bed and Breakfast
If it’s the old world feel of a charming B&B you seek, you’ll find Edinburgh bursting at the seams. Tantallon Place on Edinburgh’s south side in Newington is a short walk from the Meadows, a giant hub for the Free Fringe. On the north side in Leith, you’ll find the Fraoch House, where old world charm meets kitschy-creative decor. Both offer the traditional “full Scottish breakfast” or a lighter continental option to start your day.

Historic
The Old Waverly, directly facing the Princes Street thoroughfare, provides a traditional Scottish atmosphere (try the afternoon cream tea!) at an affordable price. Let’s not forget that it’s the most convenient location in Edinburgh, directly across from the train and bus depot, where airport shuttles drop newly-arrived passengers in Edinburgh.

Upscale
Victorian railway hotel turned Waldorf-Astoria property, The Caledonian is luxury at its finest. Facing Princes Street and the Edinburgh Castle, you’ll have trouble deciding whether to take a five-minute walk to a show or just relax for a spa day in the hotel. The Royal Scots Club, a more low-key but equally posh locale, concentrates on personal hospitality and Scottish identity to keep visitors coming back, and even acquiring membership to this exclusive spot.