Ludo Lefevbre’s Petit Trois Now Open

Adam Novicki

Some of today’s foodies will believe anything the zeitgeist machine tells them, while others only believe what they hear if spoken to in a really low French accent. With Petite Trois, chef Ludo Lefebvre, in partnership with Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, open their sophomore restaurant concept, Petit Trois, introducing Los Angeles to a new style of dining “Bar a la Carte.”

Bar a la Carte is based on the traditional French bar experience where one drops by for a “plate” of food and a cocktail or two. Nothing complicated, nothing frou-frou, just great food and cocktails. Julia Child remarked once that Coq au Vin was peasant food. The same can be said for American soul food, or Mexican carnitas. Petite Trois celebrates simple French cooking, as opposed to Trois Mec’s remarkable, almost Brechtian take on classic French cooking. Look for leg of roasted chicken, mussels mariniere, an Animal inspired burger, and a heart stopping croque monsieur. Chef de Cuisine, Sydney Hunter, brings the French experience, having worked under Lefebvre at L’Orangerie and Bastide, as well as the battlefield tours to fulfill the mission.

The old joke, “My apartment is so small I have to go outside to change my mind,” applies here. The seating, consisting of 21 bar stools with additional standing service, represents a problem or a panacea. Yes, we live in an accelerated culture, but Angelenos often like to linger, though one cannot blame the owners. At least they’re offering bar stools. The historic Berghoff bar in Chicago gets by with zero chairs!

In a welcome departure from Trois Mec, there is no reservation lottery to win. First come, first serve.
Heritage Bartending continues to resurrect itself as a true guild, and bar manager:
Danielle Motor brings her Hungry Cat experience.